Place · desert
Merzouga and the dunes of Erg Chebbi
Merzouga is a small town in south-east Morocco, on the western edge of Erg Chebbi, a field of sand dunes whose highest crests rise around 150 m above the surrounding stony plain.
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Erg Chebbi
An erg is a sea of sand dunes. Erg Chebbi rises sharply out of the hamada, the flat stony desert around it, and its colour shifts from pale orange to deep red as the light changes. Sunrise and sunset from the top of a dune are the reason most people come.
Getting there
Merzouga is far from the big cities. The nearest towns are Rissani, about 40 km away, and Erfoud, about 60 km to the north. From Marrakech it is a long drive over the High Atlas, usually split over two days; Errachidia has the nearest airport with regular flights.
Nights in the dunes
Most visitors spend at least one night in a camp among the dunes, reached on foot, by camel or by 4x4. Winter nights are cold and summer days very hot; spring and autumn are the most comfortable seasons. Take water, sun protection and a warm layer whatever the time of year.
Rissani and Khamlia
Rissani stands near the ruins of Sijilmassa, a city that prospered from the 8th to the 14th century by controlling caravan routes across the Sahara. Closer to the dunes, the village of Khamlia is known for its Gnawa musicians, who play guembri and qraqeb for visitors.
From tagine to shelter
The tagine is both a cooking pot and the dish cooked in it: a shallow clay base under a tall, cone-shaped lid that returns steam to the food as it simmers slowly over coals. The Room Service Is a Mirage design turns a terracotta tagine into a camping shelter, a temporary home for a night in the desert.
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